Replacing cables and housing

Considering the important role that cables play on your bike, especially when it comes to braking and stopping, we recommend that you think about replacing the cables and the housing in which they sit every year — or, at a minimum, give both a very thorough inspection. If you notice any kinks, rust­ing, fraying, or a buildup of dirt and grime, it probably is time to install new ones. If you do install new ones, we recommend that longer-lasting stainless steels cables be used. Follow the instructions in Chapter 8 and Chapter 15 to install cables for brakes and derailleurs, respectively.

Most bikes use one type of cable housing for shifters and another for brakes. Cable housing for shifting should not be used for brakes, because it may not be able to handle the higher force applied during severe breaking.

When you go to your local bike shop to purchase cables, remember to bring along the old cable. This way, you’ll find the right cable for your bike and won’t buy more length of cable than is necessary.

If, after inspecting the cables, you feel they don’t need to be replaced, give them a proper cleaning. Remove the inner wire and flush the cable housing with a light oil, and remove cable grit with a rag while the cable is removed from the housing. Clean the inner wire with the same solvent before inserting it back into the cable housing.

Most cable housings have an inner plastic or Teflon liner, which means that the cable doesn’t have to be lubricated. If you aren’t sure about your cable housing, ask your local bike shop.

Overhauling the hubs

In order to extend the life of your hubs, it’s good practice to overhaul them at least once a year — especially if they’ve been exposed to a lot water, which can cause them to rust from the inside.

One way to test whether an overhaul is needed is to elevate the wheel off the ground and give it a good spin. It should rotate freely, with the valve coming to a stop at the bottom, because this is the heaviest part of the wheel. Another test is to lift the wheel, grabbing the wheel with one hand and grab­bing the frame with the other. If there is play in the wheel when you move it side to side, this is another sign that an overhaul, or at least an adjustment, is in order. Another test is to rotate the axle with your fingers with the wheel stationary; the hub should feel butter smooth.

If you have traditional hubs with bearings held in place by a cup and cone, you’ll want to inspect the bearings, replace them if needed, and repack the bearings in fresh grease.

If you have cartridge bearing hubs, you’re in luck. These require less main­tenance because the bearings are sealed inside the cartridge. With some sealed cartridges, you can squirt degreaser into the cartridge followed by an injection of fresh grease as part of your servicing, although this is probably not something you need to do on a yearly basis unless you’re riding in severe conditions such as crossing a river.

You can find step-by-step instructions for overhauling the hubs in Chapter 7.